Banffy Bontida Medieval Castle – the Versailles of Transylvania
Medieval castles tend to fascinate every human being. We look back into the past when everything seemed to be more romantic than in our time. How can we do that, here, in Romania? The best way would be to visit the large number of castles – small or large-sized – that are all over the country. One of them is the Bontida Banffy Castle, once called the Versailles of Transylvania.
At a distance of almost 32 kilometers from Cluj is a small village called Bontida, famous around these places for the Banffy Castle, with a starting construction date in 1437. The castle was started by the Venetian architect Agostino Serena, and continued by Joseph Emmanuel Fischer von Erlach, who remodelled it in a baroque style, also adding to it two more U-shaped wings. The last wing was added in 1850, by the architect called A. Kagerbauer.
The castle was owned by the Banffy family, one of the most wealthy families at that time, a dynasty that reconstructed the edifice several times, going from the Renaissance style in 1680 to baroque in 1747. The baroque remodelling was ordered by Denes Banffy, the familly head of that time.
The Banffy dynasty appeared at the beginning of the 15th century in Transylvania. One of their greatest palaces was located in Cluj, followed by the one at Bontida. This dynasty was separated in two branches, one that brought a barony during the 1660s and two centuries later, the other became counts. Jozsef Banffy rebuilt completely the courtyards, park and gardens around the year 1820.
The Banffy familly built another castle near the Gilau village (Wass-Banffy Castle) and one more in the Rascruci area. The Romanian film director Liviu Ciulei used the Bontida Banffy Castle as a set for the movie “Forest of the Hanged” (Padurea Spanzuratilor) based on the eponymous novel by Liviu Rebreanu. Ciulei won the “Best Director” award at the Cannes Film Festival in 1965 with this movie.
The Banffy Castle is being restored since 2000, by Transylvania Trust, The Institute of Historic Building Conservation – IHBC and the National Office for Cultural Heritage in Hungary and many other institutions that co-operated in bringing back this castle to its former name of “Versailles of Transylvania”. Since 2000, it appeared on the World Monuments Watch list as one of the most one hundred endangered sites of that year.
The castle was opened to the public and hosts presentations, conferences and some other cultural activities. The BHCT (Built Heritage Conservation Training) centre was built here to help in preserving the castle and other historical buildings and sites. If you want to attend a cultural event at this castle, you should head to Romania in the 8th – 14th September interval, as an educational programme will take place there, called “SoNoRo – Interferente".
"SoNoRo – Interferente" is an initiative to improve the professional level of Romanian musicians by studying chamber music along with popular artists and teachers from different music academies from all over Europe. This will be the second session of the workshop, so don't miss it if you're interested in such cultural events set in fascinating places!
Adamclisi – Talking History
Adamclisi is one of Romania’s biggest archaeological sites, placed in the Constanta county, near the seaside. At the north of Adamclisi, in a place of wooded hills lies the triumphal monument Tropaeum Traiani, built by the roman emperor Traian as an homage for the victory against the Dacians.
Etymology
The current name has a Turkish origin and it is an adaptation in Romanian of "Adam Kilisse" which means "the church of man" (when the Turkish people settled in this area, they thought the Ancient Roman monument was a church). Among the important monuments which certify the beginnings of the historical continuity of the Romanian people in the Danubian-Pontic territory, a special interest and a great value presents the concentration of monuments of material culture existing in the region of Adamclisi.On the national road Constanta-Ostrov-Calarasi-Bucharest, before entering the village Adamclisi, at km 62, a paved ramification 1.5 km long leads the traveler to a plateau situated on the monument hill. Here, in a Dobrujda specific landscape, there is a famous triumphal monument Tropaeum Traiani, built by Romans in order to commemorate the victories against the Dacian coalition in 101-102 A.D.
In the center of the village Adamclisi there is the museum Tropaeum Traiani, inaugurated in 1977 on the occasion of the celebration of a hundred years of the state Independence of Romania. The modern building shelters and presents the original fragments of the monument and the archaeological evidence of the millenary mankind existence on the South territory of Dobrudja (Dobrogea).
Finally, at about 600 m from the village entrance, going to Ostrov, on a plateau which borders on the East the Urluia valley, there can be seen the impressive ruins of the city Tropaeum Traiani.
The monument, the museum and the city represent one of the most important archaeological museum complexes. In the following lines we are going to do a useful duty to present them in the above order, which represents in the same time a suggestion for a visiting itinerary.
The stairway
At the basement, all around, there are nine rows of stairs-seven on the surface and two buried because of the monument settling during the centuries-carved in huge stone blocks. There is a promenade place of about two metres width upon the superior step.The wall facing
Seeing from above, from the promenade level, there is a massive cylinder – the stereobat – first with six rows of polished stone coated slabs making the so-called paramentum – completely undecorated. According to recent calculations, the paramentum, in its whole was made of 510 blocks of stone, all equal in size, being 1.14 m long, 0.56 m wide and 0.70 thick.The precise drafting along the edges of each block, the grooves and fact that some pieces from the paramentum have been found in situ and they are similar as material and shape with those found far away have led us the idea of oneness of the material and the construction of this part of the monument in a single stage. Finally all the pieces that compose the paramentum are secured horizontally by metal clamps.
The lower frieze
Above the first three rows of blocks at the lower part of the parament unfurled circular a sculptural complex made of three rows of superposed ornamental elements: the lower frieze, a succession of metopes framed by pilasters and the upper frieze. The both friezes have been initially made of 26 pieces, each 1.17m long. The lower frieze is decorated with acanthus leaves in volutes closing in the middle an wolf's head.
TO MARS, THE GOD OF WAR, CAESAR THE EMPEROR, SON OF DIVINE NERVA, NERVA TRAIAN, THE AUGUSTUS, WHO DEFEATED THE GERMANICS, THE DACIANS, GREAT PRIEST, FOR THE 13TH TIME TRIBUNE OF THE PLEBEIANS, PROCLAMED EMPEROR BY THE ARMY FOR THE 6TH TIME, ELECTED CONSUL FOR THE 5TH TIME FATHER OF OUR HOME-LAND, AFTER DEFEATING THE DACIANS AND THE SARMATIANS ARMIES, an so on…
The trophy
The trophy consists of five superposed tambours of about 4 m height, to whom there is added the Trophy of about 5 m height. This is dressed in the costume and the armor of a Roman soldier. The statue as whole was imposing by its nature and intimated the idea of domination. The helmet was lost. To the right and left on the armor the image of Medusa appeared. Behind the breast plates there were spears, now lost, too.On the cuirass there were carved: a large acanthus flower, a galloping cavalry soldier, an eagle with outstretched wings and a shielded sword. Finally at the base of the trophy there were represented there captives, two sitting women and a standing man having his hands tight up behind. The whole statuary group symbolizes the Geto-Dacian submission, event commemorated by the triumphal monument.
The Momarlani – A Special People
In a world of contrasts, the Jiu Valley situated in the North-Western part of Romania is also a land of the extremes. On one hand, it is a place that was known for a long time for the coal mining activity that took place in the area. However, there is much more to this region than its industrial background. It is here where you can come face to face with a community that remained untouched by the modern way of life. In our agitated world, this comes to be something truly rare. Meet the Momarlani people.
The Momarlani, a Dacian Legacy
Entering the archaic universe of the Momarlani does not come easy. Their world is closed under a sort of crystal ball. During their existence, they did not venture far from their native lands much, but outsiders did not have easy access to their society either. This is the reason why the “momarlani” were able to hold on to their traditions, some of which date back to Dacian times. In fact, they take pride in proclaiming themselves successors of the Dacians. This is also the explanation behind their name: “momarlan” comes from the Hungarian “maradwany” which means “remain” (as in “remains of the Dacians”). These people chose to live in freedom on the mountain cliffs, nurturing their sheep. So far, they were spared from the hassles which inevitably result from tourist propaganda.Ancient Superstitions of the Momarlani
Momarlani are known as brave people. They know their lands like the palm of their hand and are not afraid of anything. Well, almost anything. A lot of the Momarlani still believe in the existence of the “strigoi”. The word is Romanian for “living dead”. There is a strong belief among the “momarlani” that those who cast spells during their lifetime turn into “strigoi” after their death and come back to haunt their loved ones. This is not the only superstition these people believe in. Another example is the Day of the Bear when most of the “momarlani” avoid working. They believe that unless they take a break from work, the bear will come to destroy their households.The Momarlan Way of Life
They prefer to build simple houses with few decorations as high on the mountains as possible. People say this is a consequence of the introvert lifestyle they are accustomed to. Moreover, although their costumes have rich decorations, their colors are generally limited to black and white. Some say the Momarlani would rather convey their inner selves by playing the whistle.Although there are a lot of members of this community who prefer the life of the big city, the “momarlani” who remain in their birthplace try to keep the traditions alive. Here are some examples of the unique way this community celebrates special occasions.
Traditional Celebrations
Take Christmas, for instance. The Momarlani think this holiday is not complete without carols. But their carols are not classical ones, as they hardly speak of the Birth of Jesus and are rather wishes for good luck in the future. So there is not a Christmas that goes by without the “tiparai” wandering through the villages of the “momarlani”. They are the young lads who go carol-singing early in the morning, all dressed up in traditional costumes. Their journey ends late at night in a local house where they choose to party until the next morning. The “tiparai” carry a typical flag which they claim is another proof of their Dacian descent. The flag is built to represent the two creatures that were worshiped by the Dacians: the wolf and the snake. The top part of the pennant is made out of a cross, tassels and lots of flowers which together make a feline form. The pole of the flag is about 4 meters long and has a multicolor texture that imitates a snake.On the Thursday before Easter, the “momarlani” engage in another ancient and unique custom. They believe their dead have to take part in the sacred celebration and for this purpose they adorn the crosses in the cemeteries.
But the holiday that most “momarlani” look forward to is the “nedeia”, which generally takes part sometime after Easter. This is a time of great joy for these people as they all gather with their loved one to have a good time after a year of hard work. They all participate in the religious service, after which then enjoy a rich meal and later on engage in traditional festivities.
The “momarlani” have an ancient connection with nature, with the mountains and the forest. They are among the few contemporary people who take authentic pride in their origins and never forget mentioning the sacred bond with their ancestors, the Dacians. Despite the fascinating temperament of this rare nation, the “momarlani”, with their unconventional way of life and traditions, are not widely known on an international level. Moreover, they are barely notorious in their home country, Romania, although more and more people are making attempts to make the value of their heritage publicly acknowledged. The “momarlani” are even trying to arrange a museum in order to reach this objective. So far, the lack of funds stopped this from turning into a reality.
Therefore, if you want to discover a universe that is unique and full of surprises, go look for the “momarlani” in the Jiu Valley. If you are lucky, you just might encounter them playing their whistle, undisturbed, singing of a life on the verge of disappearance.
Rasnov Fortress
Passing through the city of Rasnov, you cannot miss the Rasnov Fortress, located on a rocky hilltop in the ancient Carpathian Mountains, 200m above the town. It is 15 km southwest Brasov and also about 15 km from the Bran Castle.
The fortress is on the Bran Pass, a trade route connecting legendary Wallachia with mythical Transylvania. The view from the top of the castle hill makes you travel through time into medieval times; the wind still carries the dust raised by the Teutonic Knights while defending the people. For the armies invading Transylvania through the Bran pass, the first important settlement was the city of Rasnov.
The prosperous fair city, near the town of Brasov, was destroyed in the Middle Ages by the numerous invasions. The sole chance of survival for the inhabitants under the mounting Postavarul was to take refuge in the castle erected on the hill dominating the road to the city of Bran. This castle was meant to be a place of refuge for the commoners from sieges over extended periods of time. As such it had at least 30 houses, a school, a chapel, and other buildings more commonly associated with a village. The first written record for the fortress dates from 1331. In 1335, when the Tartars invaded, Rasnov Fortress was already strong enough to offer resistance.
The castle has an upper and lower section, with polygonal perimeter walls reaching an average height of 5m. The most heavily fortified part is the east side and the walls on both that side as well as the northwest side are doubled. The defenses include 9 towers, 2 bastions, and a drawbridge. As Transylvania has always been disputed, arms were stockpiled in the defense corridors at the walls.
The Myth
The legend says that, during a particularly long siege of the fortress, the citizens of Rasnov were concerned about the lack of available drinking water. Two Turkish soldiers, having been captured earlier, were put to the task of digging a well in the centre of the fortress. These two men were assured that they would be given their freedom once the well was completed. According to local legend, it took them 32 years to finish the well, but they were still killed afterwards. This famous well still sits in the centre of Rasnov Fortress, and is 143 meters deep.
After a long time, the fortress rises proud again. She waits to be rediscovered and appreciated. Hidden behind the ancient walls, the museums waits silently for its visitors. “La piece de resistance”is a skeleton buried under a glass floor. Most surely, you can find a lot of other interesting artifacts . The inner rooms are looking more like a maze, with several wood ladders linking them and a few secret passages. The landscape is breathtaking, the feeling is unique. The height gives you the feeling you are the lord of the world, the master of puppets.
For accommodation, you can find plenty of rooms down in the city, and at the bottom of the fortress. The city provides you hotels, motels, restaurants, clubs and bar, anything you need to have a great time.
Annual events
- Rasnov’s days, a festival celebrating the city, its traditions. There are also folk and pop concerts and ethnic dances.
- The Court of Comedians Festival: a step in time, presenting medieval art, theatre and dances, jugglers, circus artists and clown.
- The Fall Fair: music events, folk dances, exhibits. You can buy autumn specific agricultural products.
- 0ff-road Festival: car and motorcycling resistance races, night-time orientation, trial, demonstrations and auto-motor parades.
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